The LAs

Beginning the penultimate leg of our journey, we arrived in the USA's sunniest state filled with preconceptions of a fantasyland filled with never-ending sunshine, beautiful people, 'diet' pizza, psychedelic rock, cryogenics and an 'anything goes dude' mentality - and we weren't disappointed! California really is all that and more. Home to 'the Governator' and the slogan of 'our governor can kick your governor's ass), a bottomless well of technological invention and an eclectic mix of people (from techies to film magnates, hippies to religious cults and surfers to environmentalists), California is also American's most populous and wealthiest state (it would have the 6th strongest economy in the world if it were a country) and one of the most diverse places in the world with over a quarter of it's inhabitants foreign born - leading to some very interesting culture and tasty food.

With clichéd dreams of cruising sunset with the top down, topping up tans in Malibu and watching the sunset over Santa Monica, we were sorely disappointed to see grey, cloudy skies and feel the cold winds when we got off the plane - weren't we in LA? Err, ever heard of the 'June Gloom'? Nope, neither had we when we organised our trip but it seems June is pretty much the worst month to visit! Oh well, we hear sun-bathing's bad for you anyhow ...

John, who we met in Buenos Aires, had kindly offered us a place to stay at his friend's and had organised things accordingly, unfortunately he'd neglected to tell his friend the exact dates we were arriving! However, a few frantic early morning phone calls later we were safely ensconced in a lovely Santa Monica apartment courtesy of Frank, our gracious, helpful and very surprised host! The apartment couldn't have been in a better location - a cool neighbourhood a few blocks from the beach and bus-stop (not that we needed it as Frank also chauffeured us around) and Frank provided us with all the amenities - internet, laundry, cable tv and an endless supply of beer, making us feel very at home and reluctant to get back on the road. Thanks Frank for everything.

Hello Hollywood
A quick shower and 'wardrobe change' later, we were ready for our close-ups and a spot of sidewalk stargazing along Hollywood Boulevard's Walk of Fame - because obviously the big stars will just be wandering the streets/doing their shopping - won't they? Well, we did see the oompah-loompah from Charlie and the Chocolate Factory! Oh well, maybe we should just go check out the hand and footprints at the Chinese Theatre instead ... what do you mean it's closed? And what's with all these cameras? We know we're probably the most photographed couple in the world after our 7,000+ snaps but really - is there any need for the paparazzi? And will you lot quit screaming ...

Ooops, we seemed to have stumbled into the midst of the red carpet premiere of Ocean's Thirteen, complete with Brad and Ange, Matt, Andy, Ellen, Don, Al, George (Ali - stop swooning!) and erm, Eddie Izzard! A cool and very 'Hollywood' experience!

Continuing the cliché, we also trekked to the Hollywood sign, lunched at star-studded seafront restaurants (not star-studded when we were there), drove around Beverley Hills, Rodeo Drive and the mansions of the rich and famous (Steve tried to get an invite to the Playboy Mansion but Hugh was a bit busy) and visited Universal Studios where we enjoyed movie inspired rollercoaster rides, a back lot tour (Wisteria Lane was Ali's highlight, Jaws was Steve's), a scaring at the House of Horrors and brushes with the likes of Beetlejuice, Shrek and Donkey!

Beach bums...
Fortunately, the weather Gods were on our side again and the June Gloom lifted after a day or two to reveal glorious sunshine which practically begged us to go to the beach (or was that Ali doing the begging?!). Borrowing some cool California style retro bikes (Ali's decorated with flowers), we headed off down the Santa Monica Boulevard and Promenade, stopping at the pier for a 'Bubba Gump' shrimp lunch before continuing on to Venice ...

...where Aliens would probably blend right in amongst the bikini clad roller-bladers, chain-saw juggling entertainers, 'Mr Muscle' body builders and 'meat is murder' activists! This is definitely the place to get your body pierced, skin tattooed and aura adjusted - we made do with trying on wigs and entertaining ourselves watching the karmically correct, chemically altered and cosmetically enhanced!

A great part of the world, people say they came for the weekend and stayed for good and it is so easy to see why - after just a couple of days we found ourselves hatching all kinds of get rich quick schemes so we could afford an ocean fronted mansion and a shopping spree on Rodeo Drive!

Thanks again to Frank for your wonderful hospitality, and for your company on our nights in and out. We had a great time. Thanks also to Kris, as well as to Riley - a great dog who Ali would have happily dognapped had it not been for her aversion to the leash!